24/7 EmergencySandton · Midrand
    Geyser

    Why is my geyser leaking?

    A leaking geyser comes from one of four places: the pressure-control or T&P safety valve, the cylinder itself, the element gasket, or the inlet and outlet fittings. Work out which one and you know whether this is a valve swap or a full replacement. Water dripping only from the overflow pipe outside is a valve. Water in the drip tray or staining the ceiling is the cylinder or the flange, and that one does not get better on its own.

    UrgentValve swap R950–R1,500

    Quick answer

    A leaking geyser comes from one of four places: the pressure-control or T&P safety valve, the cylinder itself, the element gasket, or the inlet and outlet fittings. Work out which one and you know whether this is a valve swap or a full replacement. Water dripping only from the overflow pipe outside is a valve. Water in the drip tray or staining the ceiling is the cylinder or the flange, and that one does not get better on its own.

    Common causes

    • Worn pressure-control or T&P safety valve dripping from the overflow pipe — the most common cause and the cheapest fix
    • Corroded cylinder venting into the drip tray, usually after year eight in hard-water areas
    • Perished element gasket leaking from the flange, often alongside an earth-leakage trip
    • Loose or wrongly-torqued inlet/outlet compression fittings, common shortly after an installation
    • Failed vacuum breakers on the hot or cold line weeping onto the cylinder from above

    What you can do now

    1. 1Isolate power to the geyser at the DB board before touching anything else
    2. 2Close the cold-water inlet isolation valve to stop the cylinder refilling
    3. 3Check whether the water is coming from the outside overflow pipe or from the drip tray — that single observation tells the plumber which repair to quote
    4. 4Place a bucket and towels under any active drip and move anything valuable out from under the ceiling below
    5. 5Do not refill or re-energise the geyser — a dry element burns out in seconds

    When to call a professional

    Call owner-run Apple Plumbing the same day for any continuous drip lasting more than a few hours, any water staining the ceiling, or visible corrosion on the cylinder. A PIRB-registered plumber will isolate, identify the failed component, and repair or replace it. If the cylinder itself has gone, the replacement must be issued with a Plumbing COC confirming SANS 10254 compliance — drip tray, vacuum breakers, safety valve and isolator all included.

    Typical cost in Johannesburg

    Valve swap R950–R1,500 · Element + gasket R1,200–R1,800 · Full geyser replacement R7,500–R14,000

    Indicative ranges only. We provide written, itemised quotes before any work.

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