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    Guide

    Why Is My Geyser Leaking? Causes & Fixes

    A leaking geyser is one of the most common — and most expensive — household plumbing problems in South Africa. Identifying the source quickly tells you whether it's a R900 valve fix or a R7,500 cylinder replacement. This guide walks through the four common leak sources, what they look like, and what the fix usually costs.

    1. Dripping from the overflow pipe

    Look at the small pipe that exits the side of your house from above the geyser. If water drips continuously from it (especially at night when pressure is highest), the cause is almost always a worn pressure-control valve (PCV) or temperature-and-pressure (T&P) safety valve. These valves are wear items rated for around 4–5 years. Replacement is simple and costs R950–R1,500 supplied and fitted. Ignoring it wears the valve through to a constant flow, and you pay for the wasted hot water.

    2. Drip-tray overflow venting water

    If the drip tray under your geyser is overflowing, the cylinder itself or the elements are likely leaking inside the tray. Drain down the geyser, isolate the power, and inspect — if the leak is from the cylinder body, the geyser must be replaced. SA geysers typically last 8–12 years; cylinder failures are not repairable.

    3. Wet patch under the geyser fittings

    Damp around inlet/outlet connections usually means a worn or wrongly torqued fitting. A registered plumber can re-seal and re-torque in under an hour. Don't try to over-tighten — copper connections require correct compression, not brute force.

    4. Water from the element seal

    If water is escaping from the element flange, the gasket has perished or the element itself is cracked. A drain-down, element replacement and new gasket resolves this. Budget R1,200–R1,800.

    When to repair vs replace

    Geysers under 8 years old with isolated component failures (valves, elements, thermostats) are worth repairing. Geysers over 10 years old with cylinder corrosion, or any geyser with multiple component failures in a short window, are usually better replaced. Compliant replacement includes a drip tray, vacuum breakers, isolator and Plumbing COC where required.

    Make-safe steps before the plumber arrives

    Isolate power at the DB. Close the cold-water inlet to the geyser (the isolating valve on the cold supply line). Place a bucket and towels under any active drip. Do not switch the geyser back on with no water in the tank — the element will burn out.

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