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    JoJo Water Tank Installation Guide: Plinth, Pipework and Pump

    Thinking of installing a JoJo tank? Here's everything that goes into a compliant, long-lasting backup water install — beyond just dropping the tank.

    10 June 2026 6 min read
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    JoJo tanks are the default backup water storage choice in South Africa for good reason — they're SABS-approved, UV-stabilised and carry a 10-year warranty. But the tank is only as good as what it sits on and what's plumbed into it. Here's our standard installation process.

    Step 1: Site selection

    The ideal tank position is:

    • Close to the existing municipal supply tap (short run = better fill rate)
    • Close to the house (short run from pump = better pressure)
    • Shaded or against a south-facing wall (UV degrades tanks faster than people realise)
    • On firm, level ground that can carry the weight (5,000L = 5 tonnes)
    • Not against an unstable garden wall (lateral pressure of a leaking tank can topple boundary walls)

    Step 2: The plinth

    For tanks up to 2,500L, a 100mm bed of compacted crusher-run with 50mm river sand on top is sufficient. For 5,000L and up, we cast a 150mm reinforced concrete pad with mesh, 100mm wider than the tank base in every direction. The plinth must be perfectly level — JoJo will not honour the warranty on a tank that's installed out of plumb.

    Step 3: Inlet plumbing

    The inlet from the municipal supply runs in 25mm or 32mm HDPE (depending on tank size) with an isolating stopcock, a brass float valve sized to the inlet, and ideally a 5-micron sediment pre-filter to keep grit out of the tank. We bring the inlet in over the top of the tank, not through the side — side-inlet float valves are the #1 cause of overflows we get called to.

    Step 4: Outlet plumbing and pump

    The outlet leaves the bottom of the tank in 32mm HDPE through a brass isolating valve, runs underground in conduit to the pump location (ideally a small shaded enclosure within 5m of the tank), and connects to the pump suction. After the pump comes the accumulator, a non-return valve, a pressure switch and the supply line back to the house.

    Step 5: Changeover into the house

    We cut into the cold main where it enters the house, fit a three-port changeover valve (manual or automatic), and reconnect both the original mains feed and the new pump-side feed. The changeover always sits inside an accessible cover with the manual override clearly labelled.

    Step 6: Electrical and commissioning

    The pump must be wired on a dedicated 20A circuit with its own breaker and earth leakage protection, off the main DB board — never off a plug. Our registered electrician handles this and issues the electrical sign-off. We then prime the pump, set the pressure switch (typically 2.5 bar cut-in, 4.0 bar cut-out), test the float valve at low and high water, and run a leak test on all joints.

    Step 7: Plumbing COC

    Every new connection to the potable water supply legally requires a Plumbing Certificate of Compliance. We issue it the same day, hand you the original and email a PDF copy for your insurer and conveyancer.

    How long it takes

    A standard 2,500L family backup install is one working day. 5,000L with concrete plinth and full filtration is 1.5–2 days. We start at 08:00 and tidy up before leaving — no half-finished installs left over weekends.

    Ready to install? Book a free site visit on 082 886 9119.

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